Despite being only 7PM on a Friday night, the growing line was getting rowdy outside John McGowan’s debut restaurant Chip Munk. The bouncers encouraged patrons to disrupt sidewalk traffic with “domestic but angry” animal calls, while those brave enough shot back “Deer Doozers,” a bold mixture of mulled venison and vodka. These people were all waiting for a taste of the raccoon bagged earlier that day and then tweeted by McGowan “Freshest coon in years, just field dressed, dinner served at 830 #CHIPMUNK”
McGowan, a successful conservationist, taxidermist and now restaurateur, recently entered London’s culinary spotlight with his personal admission of surviving off roadkill for 30 years. This sparked international controversy highlighting the conflicting standards of “food safety” and allowed McGowan to leverage this press to promote his flagship restaurant Chip Munk.
The highlights included the creative Bee Mash, which is presented as a 6 inch tall honeycomb and requires the diners to smash the hive with provided mallets. Upon destroying the hive, a cache of deep fried queen bees awaited our sticky fingers. Despite initial fears of being stung, these clearly dead insects were as savory and crunchy as any palate could hope for. Additionally, the Coon on the Cob, a pan fried Raccoon loin that was skewered then braised in butter and spiced salts delivered an intense flavor of the streets while pleasing diners at every table.
It is obvious McGowan has found a niche with little competition and few shortages for creativity. Chip Munk combines the freshest local roadkill with masterful cooking techniques successfully creating an experience one can only term “Fusion.”
Dan Swanky's 